At the VIMFF, I ran into Rob Wood who made the first British ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in 1968. He asked me to publish the movie of their historical Baffin Island Expedition in 1971. Here it is with some background info.
Extract from Wikipedia’s page on Doug Scott:
Douglas Keith Scott CBE, FRSGS known as Doug Scott (born 29 May 1941, Nottingham, England), is an English mountaineer noted for the first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. During this expedition, Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to climb Everest (discounting Mallory and Irvine).
In receiving one of mountaineering’s highest honours, the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, his personal style and climbs were described as “visionary”.
From http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,292,0,1,climbers.html:
“In order to climb properly on big peak one must free oneself of fear. This means you must write yourself off before any big climb. You must say to yourself, ‘I may die here.’
Climbing is about pioneering new routes, exploring new ground, facing the unknown. Those hooked on the eight-thousanders will miss all that. They are wasting the best years of their climbing lives.”
Bibliography: